Is that all?

Thursday, 27 January 2011

Boot Lid...

After the fool went into the back of me, the axle went and I forgot about it until I noticed the boot was orange with rust.

We ordered a new, well, used boot lid. I know many of you emailed me to tell me that the boot lid I had on was not correct. We bought a 1970 1500cc boot lid. It is yellow, but I will prep it and get it sprayed.

You can see it below:

Watch this space for the progress...

Our Last Drive....

Wednesday, 26 January 2011


After walking up my drive I smelt petrol as did most of my family. This was at 10pm, I checked and saw petrol dripping off the bug!

I used my phone as a light, un did the four clamp bolts and the feed and overflow pipe. The feed pipe off - SOAKED!

After washing the drive and car, the petrol tank was emptied into some cans and then stored away from the spark boiler!

Time for some new fuel line now then!


I obviously need the wheels aligned now, however, as I said before one of the empi 8's buckled, need to find two 15" wheels to put on the front!


Axel all reassembled!

After the complete strip, I had to put the torsion leaves back in, after five minutes (double the limit of my patience), of fiddling I gave up and consulted a fellow blogger who gave me a tip.

 All the cuts in the middle of the fat leaves point to the bottom and when put together they form a circular indent for the retaining bolt to screw into. the same happens at the ends but make sure you have them the right way around so the torsion bars arms point the right way and the torsion arms are the correct way around.

In the pictures below, you will see the green circle shows the locating dent in the torsion leaves, in red, it shows the layout of the leaves.

In the middle there is the two wide leaves (these have the biggest cutout as they form the deepest part of the locating indent), then you have two more that are also wide and go either side, they have a smaller cutout.

Then you have half-wide leaves, three of these are on each side. Two are put together to form a wide one (for some reason? If you know comment and tell me :) ) then out from them, one has to overlap the split in the two small ones (as pictured) this happens on each side. You can see from the picture what I mean, I hope!
 The red circle highlights the end triangle of small leaves.

The trick is to keep all these together as you feed them through two holes shaped the same and whilst greasing them up - not easy!

My fellow blogger, told me to get a small cable tie, tape or a rubber band and hold them together. and put the correct torsion bar on the end you aren't putting in the axle and that will be a handle. After which it took me about 20 seconds to do both!

needle bearings replaced and sealing washers replaced all round. Torsion bars on and tightened, locating bolt in, damper plates on, dampers on, eccentric adjusters on top ball joints, stub axles levered on using a trolley jack handle, nuts on ball joints tightened.stabiliser bar lined up, rubbers slid on with some LM grease, clamps tightened with mole grips and catches slid on with the convincing of a hammer.

grease nipples in, pumped with grease, steering arms, and damper cleaned, axle lifted into Charlie, top hang blots tightened a few turns jack let off, re-adjusted, jack supporting again, four horizontal bolts tightened most of the way, hang bolts let of and re tightened most of the way, four bolts done up tight, top bolts done up tight, bottom four torqued, top bolts torqued.

With a bottle jack, put force up on torsion arm so damper arms could be screwed into the damper plate, hub plates back on, bearings re packed, disk back on, tightened and adjusted. Calipers on, on nearside, speedo cable put back in, if your doing the same it may be worth replacing? otherwise you will have to strip to this part to easily replace the speedo cable or seal into body! Dust covers back on, spacers on, wheels on.

Steering bars and damper on, steeping coupling fixed together, steering system adjusted and tuned. brake pipes and master cylinder checked. All good! Petrol feed pipe checked, not looking great but is not cracked or split. Will note to replace this year!

Horn cable attached. All cleaned, undersealed and greased. Petrol tank cleaned and undersealed.

Petrol tank cleaned and installed all sung and beautiful!

Earths on either side re-attached breather pipe for fuel tank fed through body, fuel level gauge cable attached. Inspection covers replaced.

After a clean, bonnet carpet replaced. Sub woofer amp re-installed.

Charlie washed!

Battery earth replaced - Beautiful!

N.B I don't own these pictures, I didn't take them. They are only used for illustration!
Taken from:

Friday, 21 January 2011

Watch this space!

As you probably know, in the workshop, you grab the nearest camera so I gotta collate all the photos, when I do, I will do a mass upload...

Watch this space!


After buying some ball joints from VW Heritage, a friend offered to change them for me. He tried and got one out but his press wasn't right.

After an afternoon of phoning around, I had no luck, no one would touch them. Eventually one guy gave me the number of a man in Halland, Sussex.

I called Philip Waters Motor Engineers ltd and they changed them no trouble at all - Real engineers (anything is possible!) Their number is 01825 840725 if anyone has the same trouble I did!

The whole lot were changed in a day and done well!


And, after i took everything off, you can see the damage!

Axel rebuild

All steering ball joints changed.

Counted the turns until the old joint come off, then screwed the new one on the same amount of turns and tightened. Sweet!

Next, steering box's position measured and cleaned up. Then assembled on new beam(pictured in black) in same measurement.

The new beam I got from a breakers - good deal, just sripped it to bare metal witha wire sanding dick and primered and three coats of hammerite all over, will be undersealed aswell.

Then dampers off.

Then stub axels.

Then tortion arms knocked off (with some butane torch convincing).

Ball joints will need replacing (EECHH... who has a press?)

All changed, hubs cleaned, everything else cleaned - now I need to get some torsion end ball joints....


Axel stripping

The off side steering rod ball joint was split as in pictures so a new one has been ordered and delivered. steering coupling looks good, steering box looks good.

Front end off!

Petrol tank off, fuel hose needs replacing!

Brake lines look great (Thank the lord for another small mercy!)

Track arms off steering arm. Wheels off, hub plates and callipers off, steering coupling apart(with some WD-40 convincing).

Four bolts off the bulkhead then the two hanging bolts from under the petrol tank at the front and the beam is off!

Time to strip!

Im not lucky!

I am having terrible luck with this bug!

With all this snow, the A27 was covered the other day!

I will upload some pictures of the road at some point!

As I went round a corner on the A26, I slid into the curb front on!

After this, I got out and the tyre was ok.

I carried on and noticed the steering felt heavy, I pulledinto a layby and saw the wheel didn't look quite right but was still very much inflated so I carried on.

The steering was pulling to the near side!!

When I got back home, I checked the wheels and I noticed the nearside front was pointing out at the top of the wheel.

I jacked up the front end and all looked ok. The wheel at the front nearside had a large coefficient of positive camber...

Oh dear 15 degrees...too much.

I saw some underseal chipped off of the front beam and called upon the old man. After some meticulous measurement he indeed concluded it F*CKED!

The front beam would have to come off to check it all.

We checked the floor pan for any bending or creasing but it was fine... a small mercy I guess...